F 593 
•U5706 

c °py 2 EXTRACT 

FROM THE 

ANNUAL REPORT 

OF 

THE SECRETARY OF WAR, 

AND 


REPORT 

or 


CAPT. A. A. HUMPHREYS, 

TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 


UPON THE 


PROGRESS OF THE PACIFIC EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS. 


WASHINGTON: 
CORNELIUS WENDELL, PRINTER: 

1855. 






EXTRACT 


FROM THE 

ANNUAL REPORT OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR. 


The reports of the officers employed under the appropriations made 
for explorations and surveys to ascertain the most practicable and 
economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific 
ocean were submitted to Congress on the 27th of February last, with 
a report from this department, giving a general sketch of the country 
over which they extended, a recapitulation of their results, and a 
comparison of their distinguishing characteristics; from which it was 
concluded that of the routes examined, the most practicable and econo¬ 
mical was that of the thirty-second parallel. A report is herewith sub¬ 
mitted from the officer in this department charged with the revision of 
the work of the several parties, and 1 refer to it for additional informa¬ 
tion derived from materials collected, on a further examination of them 
by himself, and the several officers who made the particular surveys, 
as well as for the results of explorations carried on during the past 
year. 

When the report was made, in February last, many of the maps, 
drawings, and scientific papers, intended to form part of the report, 
and which could only be prepared after an elaborate examination of the 
materials collected, had not been completed for want of time, and it 
became necessary to substitute hastily prepared drawings and prelimi¬ 
nary reports. This was particularly the case with regard to the work 
on the route of the thirty-fifih parallel. A minute examination of the 
material collected in that survey has resulted in showing the route 
more practicable than it was at first represented to be, and in reducing 
to nearly one-half the original estimates of the officer in charge of the 
survey, which indeed seemed, when they were submitted, to be extra¬ 
vagant, and were noted in the report from this department as probably 
excessive. 

Another feature ol interest developed in the course of the further 
examination of the work on the route of the thirty-second parallel is, 
that the Colorado desert, which is traversed by the route for /i distance 
of 133 miles, and which, in the report referred to, was noted as con¬ 
sisting of a soil that needed only water to render it highly productive, 

is, in fact, the delta of the Colorado river, and, according to barometric 
levels, is so much lower than that stream as to be easily irrigated from 

it. Thus there is every reason to believe 4,500 square miles of soil of 



4 


great fertility, of which nearly one-half is in our territory, may be 
brought into cultivation in one unbroken tract along the route. 

Under the appropriation made at the last session for the continuation 
of these surveys and other purposes, three parties have been in the 
field during the past season. 

One of these was directed to make examinations connected with the 
routes of the 32d and 35th parallels. This survey has greatly im¬ 
proved the aspect of the former route by changing the line for nearly 
half the distance between the Rio Grande and the Pimas villages on 
the Gila river from barren ground to cultivable valleys, and entirely 
avoiding a jornada of eighty miles, which occurs in that section; also 
by the discovery of an eminently practicable route through cultivable 
country from the plains of Los Angeles, along the coast and through 
the Salinas valley, to San Francisco. The connexion originally pro¬ 
posed between these points was by way of the valley of San Joaquin 
and the Great Basin. 

The attention of this party was also directed to an examination into 
the practicability of procuring water along certain parts of the route 
where it is now deficient. The report shows that it may be obtained 
by common wells at distances of about twenty miles. 

From the result of this exploration, moreover, it appears practicable 
to obtain, at a small expense, a good wagon road, supplied with water 
by common wells, from the Rio Grande down the San Pedro and Gila 
and across the Colorado desert. Such a road would be of great ad¬ 
vantage in military operations, would facilitate the transportation of 
the mail across that country, and relieve emigrants pursuing that route 
from much of the difficulty and suffering which they now encounter. 

A second party was charged with the duty of testing the practica¬ 
bility of procuring water by artesian wells on the Llano Estacado, an 
arid plain which has been heretofore described as a desert. The ex¬ 
periment has so far demonstrated its practicability as to leave little 
doubt of its final success; it will be continued, however, until the 
problem shall have been fully solved. 

The examinations into the feasibility of causing subterranean streams 
to flow upon the surface from artesian wells, though undertaken in 
connexion with the practicability of a railroad, if they should prove 
entirely successful, will have a value beyond their connexion with 
that object in the reclamation of a region which is now a waste, and 
its adaptation to the pastoral, and, perhaps, the agricultural uses of man. 

The third party was directed to conduct an exploration from the Sa¬ 
cramento to the Columbia river, with a view to ascertain the practica¬ 
bility of a route to connect the valleys of those rivers. The officer in 
charge has reported the successful completion of the duty, but has not 
given details. The same officer has been directed to make a recon¬ 
naissance of the Sierra Nevada in the vicinity of the head branches of 
Carson river. 

The prosecution of instrumental surveys, accompanied by an inves¬ 
tigation into many branches of physical science simultaneously over 
lines of such length, and embracing such an extent of latitude, is a 
work of greater magnitude than any of the kind hitherto undertaken 

\ 


5 


by any nation; and its results have not only proved commensurate 
with the amount of work done, but possess a value peculiar to the 
scale on which it has been conducted, as affording a basis for the 
determination of some questions of science which no number ol 
smaller and detached explorations could have furnished. Should 
means be granted pursuant to the estimate in the report referred to, 
for continuing these explorations, I have every confidence that the 
expenditure will be well repaid by these contributions to our knowl¬ 
edge of the interior of the country. 

The facts developed by these surveys, added to other information 
which we possess, suggest some considerations of great interest with 
regard to our territory on the Pacific. They exhibit it as a narrow 
slope of an average width of less than one hundred and fifty miles of 
cultivable land, skirting the ocean for a distance of one thousand miles; 
rich in those mineral productions which are tempting even beyond 
their value, and which would be most readily turned to the use of an 
invader; drained by two rivers of wide-spread branches, and with 
sea-ports lying so directly upon the ocean that a hostile fleet could 
commence an attack upon any one of them within a few hours after 
being descried from land; or, if fortified against attack, so few in num¬ 
ber that comparatively few ships would suffice to blockade them. 

This territory is not more remote from the principal European States 
than from those parts of our own country whence it would derive its 
military supplies, and some of those States have colonies and posses¬ 
sions on the Pacific which would greatly facilitate their operations 
against it. With these advantages, and those which the attacking 
force always has, of choice of time and place, an enemy possessing a con¬ 
siderable military marine could, with comparatively little cost to himself, 
subject us to enormous expenses, in giving to our Pacific frontier 
that protection which it is the duty of the general government to afford. 

In the first years of a war with any great maritime power, the com¬ 
munication by sea could not be relied upon for the transportation of 
supplies from the Atlantic to the Pacific States. Our naval peace 
establishment would not furnish adequate convoys for the number of 
storeships which it would be necessary to employ, and sioreships alone 
laden with supplies could not undertake a voyage of twenty thousand 
miles, passing numerous neutral ports, where an enemy’s armed vessels, 
even of the smallest size, might lie in wait to intercept them. 

The only line of communication, then, would be overland; and 
by this it would be impracticable, with any means heretofore used, to 
furnish the amount of supplies required for the defence of the Pacific 
frontier. At the present prices over the best part of this route the 
expense of land transportation alone for the annual supplies of pro¬ 
visions, clothing, camp equipage, and ammunition for such an army as 
it would be necessary to maintain there, would exceed $20,000,000; 
and to maintain troops and carry on defensive operations under those 
circumstances, the expense per man would be six times greater than it 
is now: the land transportation of each field twelve-pounder, whh a due 
supply of ammunition for one year, would cost $2,500; of each 24- 
pounder and ammunition, $9,000; and of a seacoast gun and ammu- 


nition, $12,000. The transportation of ammunition for a year for 
1,000 seacoast guns would cost $10,000,000. But the expense of 
transportation would be vastly increased by a war; and at the rates 
that were paid on the northern frontier during the last war with 
Great Britain, the above estimates would be trebled. The time re¬ 
quired for the overland journey would be from four to six months. In 
point of fact, however, supplies for such an army could not be trans¬ 
ported across the continent. On the arid and barren belts to be 
crossed, the limited quantities of water and grass would soon be exhaust¬ 
ed by the numerous draught animals required for heavy trains, and 
over such distances forage could not be carried for their subsistence. 

On the other hand, the enemy would send out his supplies at from 
one-seventh to one-twentieth the above rates, and in less time—per¬ 
haps in one-fourth the time—if he should obtain command of the 
isthmus routes. 

Any reliance, therefore, upon furnishing that part of our frontier with 
means of defence from the Atlantic and interior States, after the com 
mencement of hostilities, would be vain, and the next resource would 
be to accumulate there such amount of stores and supplies as would 
suffice during the continuance of the contest, or until we could obtain 
command of the sea. Assigning but a moderate limit to this period, 
the expense would yet be enormous. The fortifications, depots, and 
storehouses, would necessarily be on the largest scale, and the cost of 
placing supplies there for five years would amount to nearly one hun¬ 
dred millions of dollars. 

In many respects, the cost during peace would be equivalent to that 
during war. The perishable character of many articles would render 
it perhaps impracticable to put provisions in depot for such a length of 
time; and in any case, there would be deterioration amounting to some 
millions of dollars per year. 

These considerations, and others of a strictly military character, 
cause the department to examine with interest all projects promising 
the accomplishment of a railroad communication between the naviga¬ 
ble waters of the Mississippi and those of the Pacific ocean. As mili¬ 
tary operations depend in a greater degree upon rapidity and certainty 
of movement than upon any other circumstance, the introduction ot 
railway transportation has greatly improved the means of defending 
our Atlantic and inland frontiers; and to give us a sense of security 
from attack upon the most exposed portion of our territory, it is requi¬ 
site that the facility of railroad transportation should be extended to 
the Pacific coast. Were such a road completed, our Pacific coast, 
instead of being further removed in time, and less accessible to us than 
to an enemy, would be brought within a few days of easy communi¬ 
cation, and the cost of supplying an army there, instead of being many 
times greater'to us than to him, would be about equal. We would be 
relieved of the necessity of accumulating large supplies on that coast, 
to waste, perhaps, through long years of peace; and we could feel 
entire confidence that, let war come when and with whom it may, be¬ 
fore a hostile expedition could reach that exposed frontier, an ample 
force could be placed there to repel any attempt at invasion. 


7 


From the results of the surveys authorized by Congress, we derive 
at least the assurance that the work is practicable; and may dismiss 
the apprehensions which, previously, we could not but entertain as to 
the possibility of defending our Pacific territory through a long war 
with a powerful maritime enemy. 

The judgment which may be formed as to the prospect of its com¬ 
pletion, must control our future plans for the military defence of that 
frontier; and any plan for the purpose which should leave that con¬ 
sideration out of view, would be as imperfect as if it should disregard 
all those other resources with which commerce and art aid the opera¬ 
tions of armies. 

Whether we shall depend on private capital and enterprise alone for 
the early establishment of railroad communication, or shall promote its 
construction by such aid as the general government may constitutionally 
give; whether we shall rely on the continuance of peace until the 
increase of the population and resources of the Pacific States shall 
render them independent of aid from those of the Atlantic slope and 
Mississippi valley, or whether we shall adopt the extensive system of 
defence above referred to, are questions of public policy which belongs 
to Congress to decide. 

Beyond the direct employment of such a road for military purposes, 
it has other relations to all the great interests of our confederacy, politi¬ 
cal, commercial, and social, the prosperity of which essentially con¬ 
tributes to the common defence. Of these it is not my purpose to 
treat, further than to point to the additional resources which it would 
develop, and the increase of population which must attend upon giving 
such facility of communication to a country so tempting to enterprise, 
much of which having most valuable products, is beyond reach of 
market. 


REPORT 


OF 

CAPTAIN A. A. HUMPHREYS, TOP. ENGINEERS, 

UPON THE 

PROGRESS OF THE PACIFIC RAILROAD EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS. 


War Department, 

Office Pacific Railroad Explorations and Surveys , 

Washington , November 29, 1855. 

Sir: Since my report to you of February 5; 1S55, the general map 
of the territories of the United States lying between the Mississippi river 
and the Pacific ocean has been completed as far as the materials col¬ 
lected admit, and is in the hands of the engraver. The labors of the 
parties organized for continuing explorations will afford data for still 
further additions. 

Many of the maps, drawings, and scientific papers intended to form 
part of the reports submitted to you by the first exploring parties, soon 
after their return from the field, could only be prepared after an 
elaborate use of the materials collected. In some instances hastily pre¬ 
pared drawings and preliminary reports were temporaily substituted 
for the more elaborate results, which are now, for the most part, com¬ 
plete. 

The results of the investigations in the various branches of physical 
science in connexion with the expeditions are of great practical value, 
and full of scientific interest. The geological and meteorological reports 
are eminently so in many points of view. By the former it will be per¬ 
ceived that the sources and quality of building materials at various 
remote and important localities have been determined, and rich 
deposits of gypsum and limestone have been marked out. On the 
routes of the 35th and the 32d parallel, the structure of desert areas 
has been minutely studied with special reference to the practicability 
of obtaining water by wells or by boring, and generally with the most 
satisfactory results. From the report of Mr. W. P. Blake, the geolo¬ 
gist of the expedition in charge of Lieutenant R. S. Williamson, it 
appears that the structure of the Colorado desert, between Fort Yuma 
and the Coast mountains is very favorable to the success of artesian 
borings, and it is considered probable that an abundant supply of water 
would be obtained by boring to a moderate depth. Such a result would 
be of extreme importance, not only by facilitating communication 
between Fort Yuma and the coast for government trains, but as a 
relief to the emigrant parties which are constantly crossing to California 
through New Mexico and Sonora. The general nature and composi¬ 
tion of the soils and sub-soils over the region explored has been de¬ 
termined, and analyses of the most desirable have been made. An 
analysis of the soil of the alluvial portion of the Colorado desert, which 




9 


covers an area of 4,500 square miles, and is four times greater in extent 
than the land under cultivation on the Mississippi river, between the 
mouth of Red river and the Balize, shows that it has all the elements 
of great fertility, and, but for the adverse climatic conditions, would 
rival in its productions the best lands of the Delta of the Mississippi. 
According to the barometrical levellings of Lieutenant Williamson, the 
alluvial portion of this plain is lower than the surface of the Colorado 
river; and should this be confirmed by more accurate modes of levelling, 
as there is every reason to believe it would be, an extensive system of 
irrigation would entirely change the character of it’s surface by the 
introduction of water, the only element required for great productive¬ 
ness. About one half of the Colorado desert is within our territory. 

Valuable ores of several metals have been brought in and examined, 
and their localities visited and described. A specimen from the col¬ 
lection of Captain Pope proves to be a mass of carbonate of lead, 
nearly pure, and containing seventy-two per cent, of metal. Another 
specimen of earth, from the bed of Delaware creek, contains over 
eighteen per cent, of free sulphur. In California two veins of cop¬ 
per ore, one of iron, and one of antimony, of great extent and rich¬ 
ness, have been found and reported upon; worth alone the whole 
cost of Lieutenant Williamson’s expedition. The character and extent 
of large deposits of bitumen asphalt near Los Angeles has also been 
made known. The examination of a collection of salty and alka¬ 
line incrustations from the soil and dry lakes of California, shows that 
they consist principally of salt, sulphate of magnesia, and carbonate of 
soda. Nitre was not found in any quantity. 

Along the 35th parallel the carboniferous limestone has been found 
as far west as the San Francisco mountain, in longitude 112°. The 
discovery of these rocks so far west renders it possible that deposits of 
true coal will be found in that region, although, the observationshaving 
been very limited, none has yet been seen. The probable existence of 
coal in other new and important localities has been indicated, which 
more thorough examinations, may develop. Much additional geolog¬ 
ical exploration is required to throw light on this important subject. 

The character of the sand-hills of the Colorado desert has been care¬ 
fully considered by Mr. Blake, who has shown that they are confined 
in position to a bank or terrace, and, contrary to the opinion previously 
entertained, do not constitute a formidable obstacle to the construction 
and working of a railroad. 

Among the results of special scientific interest is the determination 
of the geological age of mountain chains. It has been ascertained that 
the coast mountains, in the vicinity of San Francisco, and further south, 
have upraised within or since the Eocene division of the Tertiary 
period. The strata about San Francisco, Benicia, Monterey, and other 
localities, have been shown to be of Tertiary age, and the foldings and 
contortions to which they have been subjected reveal the violent dis¬ 
turbances and mighty changes of that part of the continent within re¬ 
cent geological times. Tertiary marine shells and sharks' teeth have 
been brought from the tops of hills, at the base of the Sierra Nevada, 
over 1,500 feet above the ocean. 


10 


Of similar interest are the examination and description of volcanoes, 
the exhibition of the nature of the rocks and soils along the several 
routes, by large collections of rocks, minerals, and fossils, and the com¬ 
parison of the ages of mountains, and the strata on their flanks. These 
additions to our knowledge of the geological structure of the countiy 
have been of great assistance in determining its general features and 
topography. 

The results of the investigations into the zoology and botany of the 
country west of the Mississippi have proved interesting and import¬ 
ant. The existence and geographical distribution of many species, use¬ 
ful in an economical point of view, or interesting to science, have been 
determined. 

The precise range of the buffalo, the antelope, the prairie dog, the 
various species of deer, and of other animals, with that of numerous 
valuable trees and herbaceous plants, has been satisfactorily ascertained. 
Several forms of animal and vegetable life, noticed by earlier travellers, 
especially by Lewis and Clark, but unknown since their time, have 
been re-discovered. 

The labors of the naturalists and the collectors attached to the 
several parties have resulted in a collection illustrating the natural re¬ 
sources of our country west of the Mississippi, more complete than will 
be found in all the museums of the United States and Europe combined. 

Lieutenant Williamson’s report shows a remarkable coincidence of 
the elevations deduced from barometrical observations with those ob¬ 
tained at the same time by the spirit-level. The profiles of the Tejon 
Pass and the Canada de las Uvas, delineated from the spirit-level alti¬ 
tudes, differ so slightly from the barometrical profiles, that the barom¬ 
eter may be regarded as sufficiently accurate for the purposes of rail¬ 
road reconnaissance in that climate. 

The report of Captain Whipple, topographical engineers, upon the 
manner in which the elevations tor the elaborated profile of his route 
have been deduced, indicates means by which great accuracy can be 
obtained in barometrical levelling over extensive regions, without the 
delay consequent upon the mode of eliminating those errors arising 
from irregular changes of atmospheric pressure, by simultaneous obser¬ 
vations at near points. Between the Mississippi and the Pacific, these 
errors are in some instances equal to 1,000 feet. The investigation 
made by Captain Whipple leads to the following conclusions, regard¬ 
ing these irregular movements of the barometer: 

1st. They are of gre^t magnitude, and if not taken into account tnay 
produce an error in the deduced altitude of many hundreds of feet. 
,d2d. They are but slightly affected by local storms. 
yStik They may occur almost simultaneously over the whole interior 
portion of the continent. 

hi4thigThey are actually identical within certain areas of great extent, 
-affihtesfchconclusions will be regarded with great interest by scientific 
exploFers/and -those engaged in studying and observing meteorological 
phenomena. 'zA’imfc bn 

r r!tr>ba$ been -suggested, in connexion with this, to make series of 
barometrical observations at military posts on lines crossing our terrL 


11 


tories from east to west, in order to determine the areas over which 
these irregular (abnormal) movements occur simultaneously. These 
having been ascertained, it will be merely necessary, in future ex¬ 
plorations, to have corresponding observations made at one point in 
each of the barometrical areas, or regions, traversed by an expedition. 
The plan of observations proposed could be carried into effect at the 
cost of a few thousand dollars; and, incidentally, would make import¬ 
ant additions to meteorological knowledge. 

As a kindred subject, I beg leave to ask your attention to a pro¬ 
posed arrangement for improving the means of computing the observa¬ 
tions for longitude of exploring parlies. The best mode of determin¬ 
ing longitudes by these parties, is that of observations upon moon cul¬ 
minating stars. One night’s observations by a good observer will 
give a resulting longitude—the error of which will not exceed two 
miles, provided there are corresponding observations at some well 
determined point; but without these corresponding observations, 
errors, three or four times as great, may be introduced by the use of 
tables of the computed positions of the moon. Thus it appears that 
the field observations are more accurate than the means of computing 
used in the office. This source of error could be obviated by a pre¬ 
concerted arrangement w T ith an observatory for observations, at certain 
times during the continuance of exploring parties in the field. 

Upon reviewing his barometrical work for the correction of errors 
due to abnormal changes, Captain Whipple has included a mass of 
altitude observations, not reduced before for want of time, which gives 
a remarkably detailed and accurate profile of the ground ; and in con¬ 
nexion with the equally minute topographical notes, now for the first 
time used, has greatly improved the character of his route as a rail 
road line. 

Among the most important changes that the revision has introduced, 
may be mentioned the reduction of the length of the route, which from 
Fort Smith to San Pedro is now 1,760 miles, and from Fort Smith to 
San Francisco, direct from the Mojave river by the Tay-ee-chay-pah 
Pass, avoiding the tunnel of the Cajon Pass, it is 2,025 miles. In the 
preliminary report the distances were measured upon the wagon trail; 
those now given are along the plotted railroad line. Many of the diffi¬ 
culties of construction previously reported may now be obviated; and 
there is strong probability of improving the route still further, by short¬ 
ening distance and avoiding costly construction. A scrutiny of the 
barometrical observations through Campbell’s Pass of the Sierra Madre, 
about twenty miles north of the Camino del Obispo, shows that that 
mountain chain may be crossed without a tunnel or excavation at the 
summit, with a maximum grade of 40 feet to the mile, at an elevation 
of 6,952 feet above the sea. By the Camino del Obispo, the old 
route, elevation 8,250 feet, a tunnel three quarters of a mile long, at 
an elevation of 8,000 feet, was required. 

The elevations of several of the passes have been materially re¬ 
duced ; and the data are now provided for an actual computation oi 
the excavation, embankment, and cost of construction of the proposed 
route. 


I 


* 12 

As this computation necessarily involves much tedious labor, it has 
not yet been made, and in the mean time Captain Whipple has sub¬ 
mitted an estimate similar to those of the other routes, in order to 
exhibit more correctly the comparative practicability of this, than was 
done in the preliminary report. It is based upon the facts developed 
by a careful study of the observations made, and the material collected 
in the field, and it is believed by him that the amount will be much 
diminished when the results of the computation are arrived at. The 
cost of construction, as given in the preliminary report, was greatly 
exaggerated, the estimates having been formed without reference to the 
field-notes. In the examination which, by your direction, I made of 
that report, the estimates were thought by me to be largely in excess. 
They were— 

From Fort Smith to San Pedro, distance 1,892 miles, $169,210,265 00 
From Fort Smith to San Francisco, the road leaving 
the Mojave river 34 miles from the east entrance of 
Cajon Pass, and crossing the Tay-ee-chay-pah 
Pass, (the estimate from the Mojave river to San 
Francisco, a distance of 406 miles, having been 
•made by me) distance 2,174 miles. 175,877,265 00 

These would now become— 

From Fort Smith to San Pedro, distance 1,760 miles, 86,130,000 00 
From Fort Smith to San Francisco, crossing direct 
from the Mojave river to the Tay-ee-chay-pah Pass, 
distance 2,025 miles. 94,720,000 00 

Under the appropriation for continuing explorations and surveys to 
ascertain the most practicable and economical route for a railroad from 
the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean, three parties were organized 
by your directions. 

The first, under the command of Lieutenant John G. Parke, topo¬ 
graphical engineers, was instructed by the letter of the department of 
October 2, 1854, to determine the practicability of constructing a rail¬ 
road from the waters of the Bay of San Francisco to the plain of Los 
Angeles, by the Salinas River valley, and through the spurs of the 
Coast range, which extend to the seacoast near Point Conception, or, 
if that was found to be impracticable, by the coast route; to make 
certain explorations in the Great Basin, in connexion with the route of 
the 35th parallel, and between the Pimas villages on the Gila and the 
Rio Grande; the attention of the party being particularly directed to 
such examinations in the latter region as would show the degree of 
practicabilit} r of constructing artesian and common wells. These 
duties have been thoroughly and satisfactorily executed, and the party 
has just returned to Washington from the field. A rough reduction of 
portions of the field-work, at the most difficult points, shows that a 
railroad route from the headwaters of the Salinas, through the spurs of 
the Coast range, direct to the plains of Los Angeles, is not practicable; 
whilst that along the coast route is eminently so. With equal length* 




13 


it has the advantage over the route by New (Williamson’s) and Tay- 
ee-chay-pah Passes, of a less sum of ascents and descents, less eleva¬ 
tion, (the greatest attained being only 1,350 feet above the sea,) less 
cost of construction, and of passing continuously through a settled and 
cultivated country. The grades are favorable, the greatest required 
being, with a cut of 60 feet at the summit, 125 feet per mile for the 
space of 15 miles, (ascending and descending;) and this, it is believed, 
can be reduced to 100 feet per mile, by a tunnel 1,000 feet long. 

The labors of the party will develop the topography of a district 
that was before unknown, or the nature of which was greatly miscon¬ 
ceived; and will show a practicable railroad route, with easy grades, 
connecting the valley of Salinas river with the head of Tulare valley, 
by the Estrella, a tributary of the Salinas, and the Estero, a plain ty ing 
within the Coast range and connected with the Tulare Valley, near the 
Canada de las Uvas. The exploration in the Great Basin was success¬ 
fully executed, demonstrating that the Mojave river is a stream of the 
Great Basin, and does not flow into the Colorado at any time; an ele¬ 
vated ridge separating the basins of the two rivers. 

The topographical examinations between the Pimas villages on the 
Gila and Dona Ana, or El Paso, on the Rio Grande, have resulted in 
many important improvements upon the line of survey of last year. 
They have established the practicability of constructing a railroad 
between those points, by the Gila river, to the mouth of the San Pedro, 
and up that stream to the vicinity of the line of 1854; a route possess¬ 
ing great advantages over all others in this region, since, from the 
Pimas villages to the point of departure from the San Pedro, a distance 
of 166 miles, it passes along the cultivable valleys of those streams, 
instead of over bare jornadas. The ridge of mountains east of the San 
Pedro is crossed by a more direct route than that of the old line, and 
the Puerto del Dado of the Chiricahui mountains is avoided, that range 
being turned on the north by a gap or break lying between it and 
Mount Graham. The length and the cost of construction of this route 
will be about the same as of that examined by Lieutenant Parke in 
1854; the summits to be overcome will be fewer in number, the eleva¬ 
tions less, the grades more gentle, and the supply of water greater: 
these, with the great advantage first mentioned, constitute this the best 
route yet made known in that region. The results of the examinations 
with reference to the supplies of water make it probable, from the 
form and geological structure of the basins and plains, that ordinary 
wells, at distances not exceeding twenty miles, would furnish abundant 
supplies, distances not too great for the economical working of passen¬ 
ger trains. They also indicate the feasibility of artesian wells in some 
localities, which might be resorted to if needed. 

Upon the arrival of Lieutenant Parke at Fort Fillmore, after the 
completion of this duty, a report was made by him to this office of the 
principal results bearing upon the question of supply of water, of the 
points where it was desirable to have borings made, indicated in the 
order most suitable tor trial, together with all the information necessary 
for the party directed to make the borings. A copy of this was fur¬ 
nished by Lieutenant Parke to Captain Pope, then engaged in the 




14 


construction of an artesian well near the Pecos, who had been previ¬ 
ously instructed to make the requisite borings west of the Rio Grande, 
upon the successful completion of the first duty assigned him. 

By the construction, at no great cost, of a series of eight common 
wells between the Rio Grande and the San Pedro, and a series of four 
or six across the plain known as the Colorado Desert, and the expendi¬ 
ture of a few thousand dollars in making the route along the San 
Pedro and the Gila, to the Pimas villages, practicable for wagons, an 
excellent emigrant and mail route for coaches will be had, and great 
suffering be saved to those crossing the continent in this latitude. 
This route will be much shortened, and its value still further increased 
by constructing a series of artesian wells, not exceeding five in num¬ 
ber, across the Llano Estacado. The party of Lieutenant Parke is 
now engaged in the reduction of the field-work and preparation of the 
reports, maps, &c. 

The duty assigned to the second party organized under the direction! 
of Brevet Captain John Pope, topographical engineers, by the instruc¬ 
tions of the department of January 5, 1855, was that of testing the 
practicability of procuring water by artesian wells on the arid plains 
of the interior. 

The point selected for the first trial was upon the Llano Estacado, 
near latitude 32°, about fourteen miles east of the Pecos, at the mouth 
of Delaware creek, where water for the use of the party could be 
conveniently obtained from the river. The party arrived at this point 
in the latter part of May, and commenced the operation of boring. 
At the depth of three hundred and sixty feet water was reached, which 
rose immediately seventy feet in the well, and remained at that height— 
the level of Delaware spring. It was found that the various strata of 
sandstone passed through in boring did not possess the degree of hard¬ 
ness reported by Mr. Marcou, the geologist, who examined the geologi¬ 
cal collection made by Captain Pope when crossing the Llano the pre¬ 
ceding year; and in consequence, after some delays from the caving 
in of the sides of the well, it was found necessary to line it with tubing 
throughout. From the reported character of the formation, five hun¬ 
dred feet of tubing was considered sufficient for all the experiments the 
party was directed to make, less than half of which would be required 
for the well of the Llano Estacado; but the unexpected softness of the 
strata made it necessary to use all the tubing in the first five hundred 
feet. About the middle of September, at the depth of six hundred and 
forty feet, a second supply of water, pressed up through sandstone, was 
attained, which rose three hundred and ninety feet in a few minutes, 
and was still rapidly rising, when the caving in of the marly clay be¬ 
low the tubing filled in the well to the height of seventy feet, and 
effectually cut off the communication of the subterranean reservoir or 
stream with the surface. An attempt was made to remove this accu¬ 
mulation with the mud-pumps, but, after a continuous labor of twelve 
days and nights without making any impression upon it, the attempt 
was discontinued, as without additional pipe the well could not be 
finished; and, in the opinion of Captain Pope, the practicability of con¬ 
structing artesian wells on the Llano Estacado had been fully estab- 


15 


lished. The parly then proceeded to the execution of the second duty 
assigned to it. 

This result having been reported to the department, by your direc¬ 
tions, measures were taken to supply additional tubing to Captain Pope 
who has been instructed to resume the work on the Llano. 

In the opinion of the officer charged with the operation, they had, at 
die depth of six hundred and forty feet, closely approached coal meas¬ 
ures, and he was convinced that a clear stream or reservoir would 
have been found twenty feet lower. From his report and accompany¬ 
ing diagram it appears that, at five hundred and seventy feet, a stra¬ 
tum of dark blue shale of the coal measures was pierced. It is highly 
probable that the water, which appeared at the depth of six hundred 
and forty feet, pressed up through the lower portion of the stratum of 
sandstone which they had been boring through for the last sixty feet, 
would have risen to the surface in large quantities. As the first sup¬ 
ply of water rose to within two hundred and ninety feet of the surface, 
it might reasonably be concluded that, if another supply were attained 
three hundred feet below the source of the first supply, it would rise to 
the surface; the bottom of the boring was within twenty feet of this 
point when the second supply was pressed up through sandstone. The 
level attained by the first supply of water was that of Delaware spring. 
At Independence spring, which is west of Delaware spring, and six 
hundred feet above it, the upper carboniferous formation of the Guada 
lupe mountains begins. If the strata of sandstones, indurated clays, and 
marls, found between these two springs, should extend under the Llano 
Estacado, parallel to each other, and of equal thickness, it was proba¬ 
ble that, at a depth of six hundred feet below the point at which the 
first supply of water was reached, (coming from the same level as Dela¬ 
ware spring,) the second supply would be had coming from the upper 
carboniferous strata and the level of Independence spring; but as the 
blue shale of the coal measures was reached at one-half this depth, it 
would appear that the strata are about three hundred feet apart at the 
point where the boring was made, instead of six hundred feet, as they 
are between Delaware and Independence springs. Both supplies of 
water in the well were clear, pure, and palatable, free from any impu¬ 
rities, appreciable by the tests at the command of the geologist, Dr. 
Shumard. An important result of this boring is the probable existence 
of coal in the carboniferous formation which appears upon the surface 
at the foot of the Guadalupe mountains. 

The instructions of the department required Captain Pope, after the 
successful completion of the well on the Llano Estacado, or the de¬ 
monstration of its impracticability, to make borings at certain points 
west of the Rio Grande on the route to be examined by Lieutenant 
Parke’s party, in order to determine the practicability of artesian wells 
there, and the depths at which water can be had (by ordinary wells) 
at the dryest season, and the thickness of the water-bearing strata. 
By the time this duty is completed, it is probable that he will have 
received the additional tubing necessary to the successful completion 
of the artesian well on the Llano Estacado, and will then be enabled to 
resume that work. 



library of congress 


16 


The importance of obtaining large supplies c III Bill III III 111 III |fl ||| ||||||| ||||| ]| 

plains and basins, by the construction of arte ® 016 092 762 8 ^ 

cost, is too apparent to need exposition. 

The greater part of the rain and other precipitation in those arid re¬ 
gions falls upon the mountains, and, percolating through the loose debris 
on their flanks, descends below the surface of the plains, appearing 
again, sometimes at great distances, in springs and streams—the 
sources of rivers. 

On the plains and table-lands of Asia, which so closely resemble 
those of North America that a description of one may be taken for the 
other, water for irrigation, where no streams are found, is obtained by 
a series of wells connected by subterranean conduits. This laborious 
process is extensively used, and converts waste barren land into pro¬ 
ductive fields. 

If to a demonstration of the practicability of constructing artesian 
wells at moderate cost on the interior plains and table-lands be 
joined the discovery of coal-beds, fertility, industry, and wealth may 
be made to take the place of sterility and solitude over extensive areas 
of those arid, naked, and treeless districts. 

A third party, under the command of Lieutenant R. S. Williamson, 
topographical engineers, was organized, under instructions from the de¬ 
partment of May 1, 1855, to explore, first, the region between the 
Sacramento and Columbia rivers, to ascertain the practicability of con¬ 
necting them by railroad; second, to make examinations and surveys 
near the sources of Carson river, to ascertain the practicability of 
crossing the Sierra Nevada in that vicinity by railroad, provided the 
information obtained from the troops and others who had recently 
crossed the mountains by that route should indicate the probable exist¬ 
ence there of a railroad route. By a report of this officer of the 19th 
of October, the first duty has been successfully executed. 

In addition to the immediate practical value of these explorations in 
ascertaining the best routes suitable for rail and common roads ; their 
importance from military considerations; their usefulness in making 
known shorter and better routes of travel to emigrants by which much 
suffering and loss is avoided; their value in indicating additional sources 
of national wealth and strength; in substituting exact knowledge for 
vague surmise and the entirely unknown; the large amount of valu¬ 
able information collected by them respecting the physical features and 
condition of our country in topography, geography and geology, me¬ 
teorology, botany, and zoology, render it highly desirable to continue 
them. 

Many portions of the interior are entirely unknown; and for continu¬ 
ing their exploration during the following year, an appropriation of one 
hundred and fifty thousand dollars could be well expended. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 


Hon. Jefferson Davis, 


A. A. HUMPHREYS, 
Captain Top. Engineers. 


Secretary of War. 




